Friday, August 13, 2010

 7 AUGUST 2010

Koh Tao to Phuket

 

A taxi took me to the ferry, and this time I did get on the 9.30 a.m. fast Lamphrey ferry to Koh Phangan.  We then changed onto another ferry which went to Koh Samui and then Daank on the mainland.  After a 500 meter walk with our bags we were taken to a travel agents by bus.  I had been told that we would be taken by mini bus to Phuket and that it would leave at 3.00 p.m. and arrive in Phuket about 6 p.m.  The bus arrived (not a mini bus) about 4 p.m. and about half an hour later we were transferred onto another bus which turned out to be a slow service bus which picked up and dropped off passengers on the way!  We did not arrive in Phuket until about 8.30 p.m. and finally got to my brother’s villa about 9.00 p.m. extremely tired and travel weary. 

 I am now ready for some R & R and to spend time with my family.

 

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Snorkling around Koh Tao


Koh Nangyuan, originally uploaded by Sheila's Flickr photos.

It is quite difficult to get to other bays from Chalok Baan Kao, and I particularly wanted to visit Shark Bay, where there are several sharks (hence the name). It’s possible to take a taxi, which I was told would be about 400 baht, or boat taxi which is about 100 baht each way. There are also several snorkelling excursions which go around the whole island.

I felt very tired and have had a septic big toe since my three day trek, but as this was my last day here, I decided to take the snorkel tour around the island. We stopped at Shark Bay and a lot of the other people saw sharks, but unfortunately I was in the wrong place! The boat stopped at several bays around the island for about 40 minutes each time, ending up for two hours at Koh Ningyuan, which is a marine park and cost 100 baht to go on the island. It’s beautiful with white sand, but just as I was settling down for a siesta on the beach the clouds gathered and it poured with rain, but only for about 15 minutes.

On the boat I started talking to an English family, and found out they live about 2 miles from where I live, and Lee works at Gorseinon College where I have been working for the last year. Lee has also got a boat in Swansea Yacht Club. We found out we knew quite a lot of people.

When I got back I packed, and Lee, Emma and the children came about 7 p.m. and we went to the Chalok Harbour for a meal. I had had lunch there a couple of times and the food and ambience was excellent – we had a table looking at the edge looking out to sea.

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Diving in Koh Tao


Our dive boat, originally uploaded by Sheila's Flickr photos.

WEDNESDAY 4 - THURSDAY 5 AUGUST 2010

I had booked two morning dives, and went to the Big Bubble dive centre at 8.15, and after a briefing were taken in a small boat out to the large dive boat at anchor further out in the bay. We dived Green Rock first of all and my buddy and dive leader, Jack, had told me what we were likely to see, including Titon Trigger fish which are about 50 – 75 cm. and can be quite aggressive if you get near their ‘nest’. Jack pointed one out when we were underwater and as we were retreating from the area, but he kept coming at us. Jack kept trying to fend him off with his fins, but he kept on attacking. In the meantime we were surrounded by about another five Trigger fish, all of whom were definitely aggressive and kept darting towards us. Eventually, we managed to get out of their area. Jack told me one instructor had been bitten on the head by a Trigger fish and she need 3 stitches! Apart from this excitement, I also saw a white-eyed moray eel, beautiful long fin banner fish, a brown and white pipefish (similar family to sea horses), lots of parrot fish and a large grouper. I was also nibbled at by small blue wrasse, which are called ‘cleaner fish’ as they swim alongside other fish and feed off them. I wasn’t too impressed that they chose to nibble at the cut on my leg! I know I paid for fish to eat me in Chiang Mai but these wrasse seemed to have bigger teeth and it stung!

After a rest on the boat we dived ‘Red Rock’ area where we saw the colourful ‘Christmas tree’ worms, so called because the hairs on their back look like Christmas trees. We also saw some lovely coral, including a large white coral about 6 metres wide, some beautiful yellow butterfly fish and a sea snake which is very poisonous if it bites, but as it only has a small mouth can only bite the earlobes and the skin between the fingers, therefore the underwater sign for it is to cover your ears!

On the way to the dive boat the next day we spotted 2 black tipped reef sharks which are usually in the bay next door, aptly named Shark Bay. I did two dives with Nico, a German, and Jack and as soon as we went underwater a Ramora fish kept following us, and was playing with Jack’s fins. Amongst the usual coral, nudibranch and brightly coloured fish, we also saw a Blue Spotted Stingray. It is such a pleasure to dive in a shortie wetsuit where the water temperature is 30 degrees at 18 meters!

That evening, Nico, Jack, myself and our Dive Leader who is from New Zealand went on a night dive. I was a bit nervous at first, but relaxed and enjoyed it as soon as I was in the water. Although it is dark, we all had torches so it was easier to spot each other. Different species are active at night and we saw several crabs, a lobster, about 5 blue spotted Stringrays, a small stone fish (which can be dangerous) and a couple of cuttlefish. We were lucky with the weather as it was a beautiful calm night, but the previous 2 evenings it had rained very heavily. This was my longest dive ever – 69 minutes, not including the 3 minute safety stop!
Some dive schools offer reduced accommodation prices , but Big Bubble didn’t. However they let me do the dives for a reduced price of 700 baht each instead of 900, plus 200 extra for hire of the torch for the night dive. My total bill for diving was 3700 baht (about £75) for 5 dives which was extremely good value.

Chumpon to Koh Tao


View from the bar, originally uploaded by Sheila's Flickr photos.

TUESDAY 3 AUGUST 2010

I was woken at 5.45 a.m. by my alarm as I was being picked up at 6.15 to go to the ferry. It was pouring with rain when I woke, but luckily had stopped by the time we got to the ferry. A yellow sticker was plonked on my left boob to say I was getting off at Koh Tao, and then we all boarded. The sea looked flat, but I had taken seasick pills anyway.

There are a few ways to get to Koh Tao from Chumphong, one is on the Lamphrey high speed catamaran which takes about one and a half hours, the Seatran which takes 2 hours and the Songserm which takes about three hours. There’s also a night boat which takes about 6 hours and is not so comfortable. I had told the girl the night before that I wanted to take the Lamphrey as I get seasick and wanted to lessen the time I was at sea – however I began to realise that she had put me on the slower Songserm when we didn’t arrive when I thought we would! Luckily, it was calm and I felt fine.

On board a couple of men were signing people up to their dive schools and accommodation. Luckily, one of the ones I wanted to go to, Big Bubble, was there. This makes everything so much easier as they will take you to see their centre and accommodation for free - if you don’t like it, you don’t have to stay. Michal had recommended Big Bubble and the south side of the island, rather than the Sairee Beach area which is more developed.

A few of us were taken by truck to Chalok Baan Kao beach, where I was shown some accommodation at Big Fish and Sunshine resort. I chose the one at Big Fish as it was as near to the beach as you can get with a lovely veranda. The accommodation inside was quite basic, with a fan and cold water shower, and towels for bed covering, no sheet, but worth it for the view! It was very reasonable for this area – 600 baht (£12). Electricity and water are very expensive on the island, so rooms with hot water and air conditioning start from 800 – 1000 baht.

After unpacking I went for a very welcome swim after all the travelling. Chalok Baan Kao is very shallow at low water and visibility is quite poor, but the sea was very warm – about 30 degrees. I swam out to where there was a reef and did some snorkelling. It clouded over later and the rain I could see out at sea soon reached us and it poured down for about an hour. After a shower, I had a walk around the village and then some dinner back at the Big Fish, sitting on cushions on the floor facing the sea with the sea breeze on my face.

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Bangkok to Chumpong, Gulf Coast of Thailand

MONDAY 2 AUGUST 2010

The train arrived about 8.00 a.m., only an hour late, and after a wash at the station I went in search of breakfast and then wondered into Chinatown. There wasn’t much going on, as most happens later on, but there were a lot of shoe shops! I was saved from carrying a pair of lovely red shoes around and adding to my luggage problems because the woman wouldn’t sell me less than 6 pairs – it was wholesale only.

I then got a tuk tuk to Wat Traimit, which is very near the Station. The temple was lovely, and inside is an amazing 3 meter high Buddha made of SOLID gold. It was only found about 40 years ago when it was being moved and accidentally dropped from a crane and the plaster covering it fell away. It weighs 5.5 tonnes! What’s the price of gold today?

I boarded the 1 p.m. train to take me to Chumphong. Although it was in theory a day train, arriving in Chumphong about 9 p.m., it was also a sleeper train. The seats were changed into beds about 7 p.m. – making it very comfortable to lounge back and read. The train arrived in Chumphong about 10 p.m. and two women met us off the train and organised boat tickets for myself and 2 other passengers, and then took me to Chumphong Hotel; the two men were going to catch the night boat to Koh Tao. The hotel was 310 baht (about £6) for a basic room with fan, TV (all in Thai), bathroom, two double beds and a resident gecko. A fitted bottom sheet was on the bed, no top sheet but a ‘blanket’ made out of towelling which served as the top covering.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Bangkok to Chiang Mai

SUNDAY 1 AUGUST 2010

Another leisurely breakfast and then I got a tuk tuk to the river where I caught a boat for a cruise up the Ping River, where we stopped at a Farmer’s house for refreshment and were shown how to ground rice. I got a lift back with a rickshaw cycle, who insisted on taking me on a tour of all the temples I had already seen. I felt it was only polite for me to get off and have a look, as I had booked an hour’s ride and he would have been exhausted if he had had to cycle all that time. Later on I was having a banana pancake and a lassi in a cafĂ© when I saw Leonora who joined me. We then went in search of locks and chains for my backpacks as there are many stories of luggage being robbed while people are sleeping on buses and trains.

I arranged for a tuk tuk to take me to the station and caught the 5.55 sleeper to Bangkok. The seats were changed into beds about 7.30 p.m. but unfortunately I was in the top bunk, as that was the last berth available when I booked two days ago, but it was very comfortable. There were two very noisy French families on board who played cards until about 11.30 p.m., long after most people were trying to sleep. They woke up about 6.00 a.m. just as noisily.